DRIVING MALAYSIA
As an expatriate and long-time resident in Malaysia, I'd like to offer my expertise to new comers arriving in the country, especially if you intend to drive around this tropical wonderland. Let's call it "Road Tips in Malaysia." I think I'm pretty well qualified. I've been driving for nearly 50 years, and approximately 30 of those years in Malaysia.
Fewer roads canvased the Malaysian landscape back when I first arrived here. Fewer jalopies, sports coupes and luxury cars folded the roads too. Most first-time car owners drove a Saga, the national flagship car of PROTON (Perusahaan Otomobil Nasional Sendirian Berhad). Malaysian drivers tend to be more civic minded and courteous. Yet, speeding and automobile accidents ran hand in hand. To curb the problem, speed traps and roadblocks checked aberrant motorists.
Fast-forward 30 years, many more Malaysians now seem to ride with the devil. Not only do they drive like hell, they act in the most wicked of ways, at least on the roads. Outside the driver seat, they can be among the friendliest, most generous and hospitable people in the world. Hence, possession or a demonic sense of power seems to be the only plausible explanation for their behavior.
First off, Malaysians drive on the left side of the road. This is okay if you're a driver from 35% of the countries who do drive on the left. If you learned to drive on the right side like me, you might wonder why Malaysia doesn't too. I mean, after Merdeka (Independence from the British), nearly 60 years ago, you might think driving on the right side -- double-meaning intended -- would have been a first step towards true independence. Long story short, they didn't and still don't, not unless there is a traffic jam.
When this occurs one of the ways to get around a jam is to drive on the opposite side of the road. I am not. I've actually had a few inventive drivers surprise me with this devilish daring do. TIP NUMBER ONE: Be a fly. Have eyes fixed at 360 degrees!
Okay, so this may not be an issue? Wait. It gets better. Malaysian drivers are Civil Engineers too, especially at rush hour. The real Civil Engineers with the white hardhats are forever widening roads to accommodate the increase in automobiles each year. Yet, jams still persist. This might be an obstacle in most countries, but it isn't for Malaysian drivers. They might not have the actual CE degree, but this doesn't stop them from engineering extra lanes. No siree. It's not uncommon to see a four- or five-lane highway turned into a six- or seven-lane highway. Or, more!!!
You can't blame them. The white hardhats who designed the roads created the chaos. I dunno. Maybe it was a Faustian minister. Mephistopheles promised him unlimited funds, only to tighten the purse strings later. Hell's bells! It could be anyone or a combination of persons and/or factors. The point is the bottleneck roads, both at exit and entrance lanes. And, it gets worse, especially around the multi-lane tolls, of which Malaysia has a vast network. God help you should get caught at one of these hellish bumper-car derbies during rush hour. If you should, remember TIP NUMBER TWO: Don't yield to the dark side. Be patient. Feel the strength. And go with the flow.
After you've driven around Malaysia a few hours, possibly less, you begin to get the impression some of these drivers are wannabe NASCAR and F1 racers. They tailgate. Ride the slipstream. Make slingshot passes. Weave between cars. It's then you realize these hell-riders suffer from visions of grandeur. They perceive themselves to be drivers on par with Richard Petty and Michael Schumacher. Highways and byways become Talladega and Monaco. Sadly, these Mat Rempit , or illegal street racers, are nothing but reckless acrobats on wheels with an invincibility complex. Their game of chicken is more akin to exhibitionism than it is to motor sport.
No one is more guilty of this fiendish stagecraft than the motorcyclist. Not that I have anything against bikers. The problem is these guys come out of nowhere, like mosquitoes. They buzz you. They swarm around you. And if you're not careful, they can bite you in a fender-bender. To avoid said event from occurring, the best repellent for these pests is TIP NUMBER THREE: Stay in your lane. Let them pass.
On occasion you may meet the Malaysian road bully. It need not be on the lone road in the dark of night. Like Satan, he is always present and ever ready to unleash his brand of evil. He lurks. He cruises. He can even strike instantly at the toot of a horn or the flash of a headlight. When his fragile ego is fueled, his adrenaline kicks in and all hell breaks loose. He and his vehicle become one synergistic, threatening Decepticon Transformer. Road duels, road blocks ensue. At which point you wish Mad Max would rush forth and terminate the bastard. Alas, there are no such heroic road warriors in Malaysia. So, it's best you follow TIP NUMBER FOUR: Keep cool. Avoid confrontation.
Oh, and beware of the syndicates and scammers. I know this from first-hand experience. I once had a wretched kamikaze driver torpedo my car -- a Proton Saga. Far from being a divine wind, this bat-out-of-hell driver let his Mini Cooper roll down a side embankment and onto the highway. Like a pinball let loose, he bounced off me, struck another car and missed the intended Mercedes behind us. His love? To milk unsuspecting drivers, especially cash cows like the Mercedes driver. How do I know this? Simple. Mr. Kamikazi took me to a paint-n-body shop, not more than 200 meters from the scene of the accident. Secondly, and unbeknownst to him, my wife overheard and understood his Tamil conversation with a colleague, revealing all of the above.
Equally dangerous are the demonic drivers who ignore or deliberately violate traffic signs. Speed limit, no entry, yield and stop signs mean nothing. It's never a question of who has the right of way; rather it all has to do with who bullied his way more forcefully into the junction. This “Me First” attitude even applies to traffic lights.
Traffic lights in much of the civilized motoring world have a universally accepted meaning. Only here, the symbolism for green, amber and red has been lost in translation. A green light, normally associated to mean the driver may proceed, often means a driver should exercise caution and stop. Why, pray tell? Well, drivers in the opposite direction, five or more seconds after the red light has appeared, might be racing through the intersection. One would think the amber light would be sufficient to warn a driver of an impending red light, and, it does. However, in Malaysia, an amber light merely serves to advise the driver; that is, he should speed up and try to beat the red light. In this case, TIP NUMBER FIVE, is pretty obvious: Be careful or follow TIP NUMBER ONE.
When all else fails, resort to the power of the hand. It can be pretty persuasive. And I don't mean flipping off fellow motorists with the middle finger. Certain ruffians undoubtedly deserve it, but this gesture will only incite an expletive deletive discourse and quite possibly fististicuffs. A more effective way to express oneself is to carry the hand and say “Hello.” It can halt and thank a fellow driver simultaneously. Pedestrians can use the gesture to equal effect as well. So, when all else fails, try TIP NUMBER SIX: Use the power of the hand.
One might think a day of judgment reckons. And it does. The black-and-whites in motorcycle boots, the Trafik Polis Diraja Malaysia (or Royal Malaysian Traffic Police) do bring these hell-riders and fiends to justice. On occasion they can be avenging angels and nab the nasty beasties. Make no mistake. They do catch them, be it in the office, in the home or in the car. Enforcement goes beyond the conventional roadblock. There is no escape!
Sure, there was a time when the black-and-whites seemed like Mack Sennett's Keystone Kops. The well-connected, even not so well-connected, could grease the legal wheels and evade justice with dare I say it, a snatch. On other occasions, Special Ops to round-up drivers of delinquent summons were given a generous grace period to pay up, only to be waived after X millions of ringgit had been collected, letting X number of violators drive away unprosecuted. This stick-and-carrot incentive set a dangerous precedent. It merely reinforced the tidak apa (or so what) attitude prevalent among many Malaysian drivers.
In the event a black-and-white uniformed officer does issue a summons to you, hold onto it. You have X number of days to settle the offense. Don't resort to the maxim "When in Malaysia do as the Malaysians." Don't even think about it. Rather follow TIP NUMBER SEVEN: Don't panic. Keep your passport, national IC and/or license handy. Pay the summons.
Really folks, there is only so much law enforcement can and should do. The key to exorcising these demons lies with each of us. When we step into the car and put it in gear we should be in control of ourselves. We should not let anger, greed and impatience possess and temper our judgment. We must practice the rule of law and order. Without it, all hell breaks loose.
Above all else, don't let the bad habits of these devils drive you crazy. Malaysia is truly a beautiful country. Enjoy the landmarks, the scenery, the natural wonders. Above all else, berhati-hati di jalan raya (drive carefully).
© Breyel, Timm. "Driving Malaysia". All rights reserved.